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Let’s Talk About Skin, Baby.

At the dawn of my 40s, I realized that I’d done little to care for my skin. The loss of moisture was exacerbating the appearance of fine lines I’d developed in my 30’s, which, mixed with my melasma and the “texture” from my adult acne scars, painted a portrait I was far from happy with. Determined to make a change, I embarked on a skincare journey that is far from over. Yes we should embrace the natural process of aging, there’s beauty in that. But there’s also something about skincare that’s self-care.

In this post, I’ll share effective dermatologist-recommended strategies that I’ve incorporated into my routine with the hopes that you can cut straight to the punch and spend your skincare dollars more effectively.

Understand Your Skin’s Needs

At the risk of stating the obvious, during our 40’s, our skin undergoes significant changes due to hormonal shifts, decreased collagen production, and accumulated sun exposure. This decade brings a drier, less elastic skin texture due to decreased sebum production and the breakdown of collagen and elastin. This results in more pronounced fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. I noticed all of the above: more wrinkles, drier skin, age spots, and annoyingly persistent acne scars – aka “texture”. I set out to adopt a skincare routine that addresses these changes to develop healthier, more radiant skin.

Upgrade Your Moisturizing Game

Hydration is key at this stage. Look for moisturizers with hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides, which help to retain moisture, strengthen the skin’s barrier, and fill in fine lines for a smoother appearance. Consider richer creams and/or oils at night to deeply hydrate and repair the skin while you sleep. After testing out many, here are my favorites:

  • DR. JART+ Cicapair Sleepair Ampoule-In Mask 110ml Night Sleeping Mask Cream. I credit this mask for restoring moisture in my skin. As soon as I turned 39, it felt like my skin became a dessert. And for a while, it didn’t matter how much moisturizer, face oil or serums I used. By midday, my skin would feel parched. Enter this sleep mask, which you use at the end of your nighttime skincare routine and leave on overnight. It has a gel-like consistency that doesn’t feel too heavy or sticky. In fact, think of it more as a thick cream. I highly recommend for anyone battling dry skin. After about 3 weeks, my skin’s moisture barrier was repaired and I no longer used it every night. Instead, I’ll reserve for those times when my skin needs an extra moisture boost – like the winter months when the heater’s blasting. Active ingredients include centella asiatica leaf extract, which have anti-inflammatory and and moisturizing properties, niacinamide, which has many benefits, including helping with hyperpigmentation and fighting wrinkles, and theobroma cacao extract, which has antioxidative properties.
  • FACEGYM Supreme Restructure. As stated by FACE GYM, the goals of this cream are to firm and regenerate, protects against aging, moisturize and protect. I can attest that this cream is incredibly thick and luxurious, and certainly helped restore my moisture barrier. It comes in this aluminum tin with refillable pods. It includes many ingredients that we seek in moisturizers, including glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide, and numerous oils including jojoba and sunflower seed, which have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
  • Primally Pure Clarifying Cream. I still battle from adult acne. This sent me on a hunt to find skincare products that aren’t overly drying or contain tons of chemicals. I discovered Primally Pure and am really loving Primally Pure’s clarifying skincare line. This cream in particular is chock-full of clarifying and anti-inflammatory oils which aim to balance sebum production and calm acne. It also includes fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins A, D, E and K to repair skin, reverse sun damage and deliver nourishment where skin needs its most. What more could one want? I love Primally Pure’s focus on toxins removal, which makes me feel good when I use this product.

Prioritize Sun Protection

We’ve heard this before – sun damage is cumulative, and its effects become more apparent in your 40s. Protect your skin by applying a broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy days or when indoors. Reapply every two hours if you are outdoors for extended periods. Sun protection helps prevent further photoaging, reduces the risk of skin cancer, and can even help reverse some signs of damage.

Don’t get me wrong, getting sun and natural doses of vitamin D is vital. But it has certainly done a number on my skin with stubborn sunspots. Just make sure you enjoy the sun with a little bit of protection. Because I’ve battled with dry skin, I seek out moisturizing sunscreens and am in love with SuperGoop’s Glowscreen. It comes with all the hydrating goodies: Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin B5 & Niacinamide.

Introduce Retinoids

Retinoids are a gold standard in anti-aging skincare, known for their wrinkle-, acne-, and dark-spot fighting properties. In fact, Doctorly considers tretinoin, a form of retinal, the GOAT (greatest of all time) of skincare ingredients. Start with a lower concentration retinol or retinaldehyde if you’re new to retinoids, and gradually increase the strength as your skin acclimates. Apply retinoids at night, as they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. the stronger retinoids require prescriptions. If you’re having a hard time finding time to go to the dermatologist like I do, worry not, Agency brings the dermatologist to you! Simply upload photos, share your skincare goals, and a medical professional will tailor a prescription to meet your skincare needs. Agency offers a 30-day trial at a heavily discounted price, which is how I started with the brand. Their staff checks in with you before refilling your next order to make sure the products are serving you as intended, which I really appreciate. I’m currently using their Future Formula and Dark Spot Formula.

See below for screenshot of skincare tips from the dermatologist, which lands right through the messages section of your account profile.

If you’re not ready or don’t see a need for prescription strength retinoids, I recommend checking out Maelove’s line. Maelove offers an over-the-counter enhanced retinol serum that offers the results of prescription strength retinoids without the side effects, like dryness, flakiness and irritation. I haven’t tried it yet, but plan to if Agency proves too tough on my skin. I’ll keep you all posted!

There are other skincare brands that offer similar customizable services. If you’re interested in learning more about them, I found Abby Yung’s post comparing brands that were new to me, such as Curology, Musely, Apostrophe and GoodRx helpful. You can find that here.

For those of you who are newer to tretinoin like I was, I found Dr. Dray’s video on the do’s and don’ts while using the ingredient very helpful. For example, she recommends washing your hands after applying it to your skin because you’ll inevitably touch the skin around your eyes which is thinner, more sensitive, and where one should not apply retionids.

Antioxidants Are Your Friends

Antioxidants are naturally occurring compounds that neutralize and protect against unstable molecules (i.e. free radicals) that damage cells. While our bodies produces some of antioxidants we need, we must attain the rest from foods like fruits, vegetables, grains or supplements. I’ve started incorporating antioxidants into my skincare routine as well. We’ve already talked about retinoids above, but the most effective skincare antioxidants include Vitamins C and E, ferulic acid, Coenzyme Q10 and resveratrol which collectively can help fight free radicals, reduce inflammation, and brighten the skin. Antioxidants, such as resveratrol, also enhance the efficacy of your sunscreen, providing an extra layer of protection against environmental damage. Below is what’s in my current rotation:

Don’t Neglect Your Eyes and Neck

The skin around your eyes and neck is thinner and shows signs of aging more quickly. Use products specifically formulated for these areas to address concerns like crow’s feet, dark circles, and sagging skin. Look for eye creams with peptides, retinol, and hyaluronic acid, and apply a firming cream to your neck and décolletage.

Consider Professional and At Home Treatments

Professional Treatments

Your 40s are a great time to explore professional dermatological treatments that can address signs of aging more effectively than over-the-counter products. Chemical peels, laser therapy, and microneedling are popular options that can improve skin texture, tone, and elasticity which are aligned with my skincare goals. Consult with a dermatologist to determine the best treatments for your skin type and concerns. In fact, I tried chemical peels and microneedling for the very first time in the past six months and have been really pleased with the results, particularly to improve my skin texture and overall radiance. Thank you to those of you who’ve noticed an improvement!

If you’re in San Francisco, I highly recommend Elinea Spa run by Dr. Rami, where I tried professional chemical peels and microneedling treatments for the very first time. Dr. Rami is an internal medicine doctor who became fascinated by wound healing and regenerative medicine during his residency when he practiced in the ER. After all, chemical peels, microneedling and laser treatments, in essence, all involve the practice of creating controlled wounds to promote the regeneration of collagen and elastin.

Ultimately, he braved the transition from Internal Medicine to to Medical Aesthetics and poured his heart into creating a “modern med spa for modern humans.” The space is absolutely stunning, the staff is warm, friendly and professional, and it happens to a few steps away from Poesia Cafe, where some of the San Francisco’s best pastries can be found. Take it from a self-proclaimed almond croissant connoisseur. There’s also Poesia Restaurant, which I intend to try one of these days, but that’s for another post.

Dr. Rami Hosein, MD
Elinea SF med spa – lobby
Elinea SF Med Spa – treatment hall
At-home treatments

From the comfort of your home, you can upgrade your skincare with a couple of at-home treatments I’ve been very happy with. Please consult with a medical professional before you try these devices if you have any concerns whatsoever:

  • Microcurrent Device – Microcurrent devices are used to stimulate facial muscles and help lift and contour the skin. while you can see results pretty immediately, the device needs t be used regularly to reap longterm benefits. After the recommended daily usage for at least 60 days, I now use NuFace Trinity at least 3x a week and have been pleased with the results. I literally notice one side lifted compared with the other after treating the first half of my face. I followed the founder’s 5 min and 15 minute tutorials to make sure I was using the device properly.
  • Red Light Therapy – Red light can penetrate the top layer of our skin and into the dermis where essential proteins like collagen and elastin can be found. Once absorbed by our cells and converted to energy the re light helps stimulate production of these proteins and hyaluronic acid in our skin. It’s been reported to decrease inflammation and bacteria, improve circulation and repair damaged tissue helping to improve skin texture. After a fair amount of research, I decided on Qure’s Light Therapy Mask, because the treatments are only 3 minutes long and I appreciated the broader spectrum of lights offered by the mask.
  • Dermaplaning – Dermaplaning may be one of my favorite at-home treatments. It exfoliates your skin by removing dead skin cells, peach fuzz, and hair with a scalpel-like blade. There are many dermaplaning tools out there. I have the Stacked Skincare Dermaplaning Face Exfoliating Tool and have been using the precision blades because it’s easier to use on tougher areas, like my forehead.

Lifestyle + Consistency Matters

Lastly, don’t underestimate the impact of a healthy lifestyle on your skin. Maintain a balanced diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and omega-3 fatty acids. Stay hydrated, get enough sleep, manage stress, and avoid smoking. These habits not only benefit your overall health but also enhance your skin’s appearance and its ability to repair itself.

This goes without saying but consistency, like always, is key. As they say, the be successful, you must do something well consistently for a long time – the same is true with skincare. Just like your workouts and diet, incorporate skincare into your lifestyle routine. Here’s my current routine:

My Morning Skincare Routine

Note that I use two exfoliants, the toner and lactic acid. You should try one before using two to see whether or not it irritates your skin. I’m currently on a tretinoin pause, but will be starting again at which point, I’ll eliminate the additional exfoliants until my skin readjusts.

My Nighttime Routing

Conclusion

Caring for your skin in your 40s requires a combination of targeted skincare, professional guidance, and healthy lifestyle choices. By understanding the changes your skin is going through and adapting your routine accordingly, you can promote a complexion that is as vibrant and youthful as you feel. Remember, it’s never too late to start taking care of your skin, and the efforts you put in now will pay off in the years to come.

What are your skincare goals? What is your skincare routine? I’d love to know what you found helpful.

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